We had to get up at 5am to leave at 5.50 to make the 8am ferry from Port Angeles, WA. So bleary eyed and Tony not feeling too good, we were on target. We were feeling pretty good. The drive there was uninspiring and foggy. But the ferry was drawing near. 1 hour and 55 minutes into the 2 hour journey, just at the sign for Port Angeles, the realization dawns. 'Passports!' They made it on to the list, but not in to the bags. Canada is a different country. You need ID.
What a sorry state of affairs. It took an early morning donut shop and coffee to cheer us up. Tony made friends with the locals too.

Then we had to decide what to do. We'd come all this way, and there really wasn't anything much behind us. And we had already been up Hurricane Ridge, and we were wearing 'town' clothes, not hiking clothes, and Tony was feeling ill.
Se we decided to drive round the whole of the Olympic Peninsula on Route 101. May I offer this piece of counsel: If you are thinking about doing this 'just for the drive', abort now. The road is tree lined and apart from 2 brief spots, you can't really see anything. It is winding and fun, but stuck behind holiday trailers going at 35mph because they are American and can't do anything that's not straight, is not fun.
If, however, you seek beauty that you have to find, I highly recommend it for off the main road there are many natural wonders hidden away. Next time, we're taking a couple of days and a tent, and hiking boots.

We stopped in Beaver to stretch our legs.
Then we headed out to LaPush. All we knew of this area is that it is a surf spot. We have since discovered that it is Ground Zero for Twilight fans.
On this grim July day, there were people camping on the beach because that's what they do in Twilight.

Sadly, the fog was still with us when we arrived, so we didn't get to appreciate the full beauty of the area. Once our teeth stopped chattering we did start to feel its charm though. Perhaps a place to return to when a) there's sun b) there's no Twilight
That's Tony on the tree.It was good to see the Indian reservation making the best of the invasion. This was just one of around 20 stalls people had set up out of their trailers selling Twilight...well...crap basically.

We continued on to Forks, which again, was Twilight central. The grocery store was selling Tshirts with 'Forks' on them for $25. The cafe's had changed their names to Twilight... and I even saw a firewood stand that was 'Twilight Firewood'. I guess you can't blame the old town for cashing in on some long-needed visitors. At the visitor center there was a camera crew making a documentary about Twilight fandom. They had huge cardboard cutouts of the actors. Pity they didn't have more maps.

They are my vampire teeth, if you're wondering.
With the day not getting much better, we thought perhaps a trip to the Hoh Rainforest would straighten us out.

It was 3 o'clock by this time, and we still had a LONG way to go before we got back to Tacoma. We started off on a route march of the 2 mile loop you can do. Thankfully, we came upon a ranger tour and decided to stop and listen. It was fascinating.

We learned more about the forest than we ever thought possible. This is a good guide. Below is the Hall of the Mosses. Did you know it takes 50 years for moss to establish itself on a tree? Think about that next time you lean against one. Two hours later we headed on our way again.

The road continued on, long, grey, open and tree lined. The western side of the loop is marginally more scenic, but only just. As you turn towards Lake Quinault though, your breath is taken away. We pulled in to the lodge and cafe to get some food. At 8pm on a Sunday you can't really grumble at what you get.

The last slog back to Tacoma via Aberdeen saw us home at 10pm. I was a little sad that the first time I did that ride to Aberdeen with Kimberley, I was blown away by the trees and the green. This time they were just taunting me with their branches.
Don't get me wrong, we had fun. We'll just do it different next time.
For more pictures click here.















