The Olympic Peninsula

We tried to go to Victoria BC this Sunday. BC as in British Columbia, as in Canada. Knowing how well we always prepare for these outings, I diligently made a list of all necessary items, checked the ferry sailing times and planned out carefully when we had to leave, including time to make lunch.

We had to get up at 5am to leave at 5.50 to make the 8am ferry from Port Angeles, WA. So bleary eyed and Tony not feeling too good, we were on target. We were feeling pretty good. The drive there was uninspiring and foggy. But the ferry was drawing near. 1 hour and 55 minutes into the 2 hour journey, just at the sign for Port Angeles, the realization dawns. 'Passports!' They made it on to the list, but not in to the bags. Canada is a different country. You need ID.

What a sorry state of affairs. It took an early morning donut shop and coffee to cheer us up. Tony made friends with the locals too.



Then we had to decide what to do. We'd come all this way, and there really wasn't anything much behind us. And we had already been up Hurricane Ridge, and we were wearing 'town' clothes, not hiking clothes, and Tony was feeling ill.

Se we decided to drive round the whole of the Olympic Peninsula on Route 101. May I offer this piece of counsel: If you are thinking about doing this 'just for the drive', abort now. The road is tree lined and apart from 2 brief spots, you can't really see anything. It is winding and fun, but stuck behind holiday trailers going at 35mph because they are American and can't do anything that's not straight, is not fun.

If, however, you seek beauty that you have to find, I highly recommend it for off the main road there are many natural wonders hidden away. Next time, we're taking a couple of days and a tent, and hiking boots.



We stopped in Beaver to stretch our legs.

Then we headed out to LaPush. All we knew of this area is that it is a surf spot. We have since discovered that it is Ground Zero for Twilight fans.

On this grim July day, there were people camping on the beach because that's what they do in Twilight.


Sadly, the fog was still with us when we arrived, so we didn't get to appreciate the full beauty of the area. Once our teeth stopped chattering we did start to feel its charm though. Perhaps a place to return to when a) there's sun b) there's no Twilight

That's Tony on the tree.

It was good to see the Indian reservation making the best of the invasion. This was just one of around 20 stalls people had set up out of their trailers selling Twilight...well...crap basically.



We continued on to Forks, which again, was Twilight central. The grocery store was selling Tshirts with 'Forks' on them for $25. The cafe's had changed their names to Twilight... and I even saw a firewood stand that was 'Twilight Firewood'. I guess you can't blame the old town for cashing in on some long-needed visitors. At the visitor center there was a camera crew making a documentary about Twilight fandom. They had huge cardboard cutouts of the actors. Pity they didn't have more maps.


They are my vampire teeth, if you're wondering.

With the day not getting much better, we thought perhaps a trip to the Hoh Rainforest would straighten us out.


It was 3 o'clock by this time, and we still had a LONG way to go before we got back to Tacoma. We started off on a route march of the 2 mile loop you can do. Thankfully, we came upon a ranger tour and decided to stop and listen. It was fascinating.



We learned more about the forest than we ever thought possible. This is a good guide. Below is the Hall of the Mosses. Did you know it takes 50 years for moss to establish itself on a tree? Think about that next time you lean against one. Two hours later we headed on our way again.


The road continued on, long, grey, open and tree lined. The western side of the loop is marginally more scenic, but only just. As you turn towards Lake Quinault though, your breath is taken away. We pulled in to the lodge and cafe to get some food. At 8pm on a Sunday you can't really grumble at what you get.


The last slog back to Tacoma via Aberdeen saw us home at 10pm. I was a little sad that the first time I did that ride to Aberdeen with Kimberley, I was blown away by the trees and the green. This time they were just taunting me with their branches.

Don't get me wrong, we had fun. We'll just do it different next time.

For more pictures click here.

Bits and bobs

We've been up to lots of other bits and bobs in the last month or so. Summer time is socializing time. Here are some more pictures for you:

Zoobilee

Summer pictures in Tacoma

Some more garden pictures - the artichokes and sunflowers have been invaded by black flies this week.

A beautiful sunset over the Sound

Mountain to Sound relay race

Ride Around Vashon Island

After a good long time of trying to get me back on a bike, Tony was delighted when, of my own volition, I decided to ride to work. And then two days later ride around Vashon Island.

I'm still not sure what possessed me, but I'm glad I did it and grateful that Tony could adjust my seat for me!

The ride to work is about 9 miles and goes over the Tacoma Narrows bridge, with a view of the Olympic Mountains. It's pretty spectacular. And hilly in both directions. I did it in 37 minutes on the way back.

Two days later, after work, we rode to Point Defiance to take the ferry to Vashon Island - the island we can see from our window. The purpose of the trip was to go and get gluten-free burger and fries at a little hut right in the middle of the island, and then ride home again.


We got the 6.30 ferry over and rode around the south east side. The ride starts with a lovely hill as soon as you get off the boat. Great way to get the blood flowing. The roads then continue to roll around the coast, up and down the curves of the island's luscious lands.

The best bit was feeling the air distinctly hot and then cold as the wind blew in off the water.

After a couple of saddle adjustments and a little whining, we made it to the burger stand! It was good burger. And chocolate milkshake. And fries.


All that food makes the legs a little heavier for the road home. This time we rode to the south west in the more open, less hilly pastoral lands. We had a great descent that we were both thoroughly enjoying, until we realized we were going the wrong way and had to ride back up again.

The 10pm ferry took us back at dusk and we made our way home in the dark.

Fourth of July 2010

Ah time flies when you're having fun. Is it really that time already? After more than a year on this side of the pond, the idea of the Fourth of July is sad to say, not nearly as exciting as it was this time last year, eagerly waiting to see what all the fuss was about. In addition to the weary eyes of experience, the weather this year has not been nearly so kind as last. Fourth of July 2009 we had to hide inside because it was too hot. This year...well, you'll see.

I started the weekend off with a cook off, knowing that socializing would be a large part of the holiday and that a pot luck would be inevitable, and also that if I made it all now, I wouldn't have to cook all weekend. It worked well.


Eight different dishes, using maybe 10 different ingredients? And a whole hunk of garlic.

Saturday was marked by the start of the Tour de France. Everyone was hyped up for it thanks to some excellent movies and an exciting line up. The Hub opened early so that we could all cram in to watch it live.

Tony has pink knee warmers on too.

Sunday morning started grey and early. The planes were out practicing for their show later on in the day. I was treated to a private window view of the action. It was fascinating for a good 20 minutes, then the bone shaking noise became a little fatiguing.


Around 12 we decided it was time to go down to the Freedom Fair. By this time last year, the streets near our apartment were filled with incomers' cars. This year not a single one. The weather was putting lots of people off. Down at the water front it was busy, but not crazy. It was mainly people from the nearby area rather than the hoards of extras we saw last year. You can tell where people are from depending on the car the drive, the shoes they wear and the size of their jewelery.

Ford had some display vehicles.


Perhaps a little excessive for Ruston Way?

The Skid Kings Vintage Bicycle club were out in all their finery, as were the vintage car owners.



After a decidedly muted walk all along the waterfront, the highlight of which was getting to the honey buckets at the end and finding no hand wash left and having to walk all the way back down with poopy hands, we decided to go home and have a little snooze (and wash our hands).

Then it was of to Philip and Annie's house. We let them keep their flag this year. I mentioned it was colder than last year...



Then on to Philip and Brooke's place to watch the fireworks on the water. We felt like film stars as we walked down their driveway with all the people who couldn't make it to the water sitting on their wall to watch (they have a plum spot on the hill).

This was the 'Grand Finale'.


It was an austerity display year.

Boats, Planes and Automobiles

I am very fortunate to work in Gig Harbor, a small harbor town on the Puget Sound. According to Wikipedia (and therefore irrefutably true) Gig Harbor, based on per capita income, ranks 49th of 522 areas in the state of Washington to be ranked. As such, things tend to happen here, what with the marinas, private airport and all.

Last week was a veritable lunch time feast with tall ships and vintage airplanes visiting the area.

The Lady Washington and the Hawaiian Chieftain are two working tall ships that sail around the area, stopping in marinas for visits and allowing young people to travel and work on them. The boats are only 20 years old, so as a Brit used to the SS Great Britain etc, it was strange to be aboard such young wood.

The Lady Washington (pictured below) was featured in the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. Apparently there's a documentary on the boat at the end of one of the DVDs. It was a most handsome vessel.


The next day, I went to the Narrows airport to see three WWII planes that were visiting and taking off that day. I went with Dean, who since childhood has been into planes. At the airport they also had several guides who had flown or worked on the planes in their hey-day. It was fascinating to learn about the planes we were looking at from an historical and a personal perspective. I won't even pretend to know anything about them. I've linked to Wikipedia for each of them if you're interested.

The B17. Someone in our office told us that him mom worked on the riveting of these planes at Boeing, near Seattle. Up close you can see every single one of them, hand punched.


The B24 - Standing heavy and stationary on the tarmac, it was fascinating to see this leaden behemoth turn into a wobbling fish as it started to roll down the runway for take off. A bomber with no bombs in it has little to fill its belly.


An ex-serviceman who flew on these talked with us for quite some time about his experiences on board. He told us how a great deal of learning had to take place on the job with regard to the design of the plane and the crew's conduct onboard. He said that a lot of men died finding faults in the designs. He saw people jump out the back in a certain way and had their heads cut clean off by the air force.


The P51 Mustang - This plane had been grounded in California with work to do on it. It flew in just in time towards the one. One lucky chap got to ride in it for an hour for the princely sum of $3000.



At the weekend Tony and I went to the Fremont Fair. It's locally and nationally known for its bike parade and er...nakedness.

There was also an Art Car show. All kinds of craziness in car form. There were working fountains, extending arms, a cor covered in shoes and handbags...


And then driving down I5 this beauty was spotted!


What a joy it is to live in such a creative environment, to be visited by pieces of our history, and to have the privilege of talking with living heroes.

Tacoma Twilight Criterium

This weekend was crazy, and I'd love to write a whole blog, but I'm still going on tidying stuff up so I'm just posting the press release here. My pictures are here. Tony's in a great one here.

Wish you all could have been there!

...

We did it! What a great night. Thank you so much to everyone who volunteered, rode, watched, supported in any way.

Here’s the report….

Tacoma, WA. has been waiting for a cycling event for almost as many years as it has been a city. On June 12^th it happened – The inaugural Tacoma Twilight Criterium.

The TTC was the 6^th and final stop of the newly founded Cascadia Crit Series, also supported by Michelob. Stops along the tour began on May 29th in Woodinville, WA. and followed in Fremont, Seward Park, Ballard and the Brad Lewis Memorial before concluding in Tacoma.

The Tacoma course featured a basic 4-corner rectangle measuring about .8 of a mile with an uphill on the back side and a slight downhill finish. Lap times were averaging apppx. 1:35 which gave the crowd plenty of chances to see the race unfold.

US Olympic Short Track Speedskating medalist JR Celski attended to sign autographs and cheer on racers while a sparkling new 2010 Lamborghini SV served as the pace car for the night’s category 1 main event. Over 350 racers attended to put on a show of hard work for more than 3,000 spectators. An art-bike parade featured Tacoma’s best in retro and custom fabricated rolling works of art. More than 60 kids lined up for a shot at racing downtowns Pacific Ave. Local merchants opened the doors to serve the fans while the strips two hottest restaurant bars, Paddy Coynes and The Matador, hosted beer gardens with live music to keep the party going. The bike racks at The Hub’s after party were stacked 3 deep with bikes.

Local Cat 1 racer and staple fixture of the Pacific NW race scene, Russell Stevenson commented on the race in which he took 2^nd: “What a great race. Definitely one of the best events we’ve seen here in the entire NW. We’ll be back for sure.”

The goal for this event was two fold: create a great race for the cyclist and create a festival atmosphere for the city. Great racing, fortunately in the Pacific NW, is not all that hard to do. The WSBA members and officials who help with race logistics are a great team of people. They can pretty much show up anywhere and be ready to hold a race on almost a moments notice.

The bigger goal however was to create the festival atmosphere for the city. After all, what is a cycling race if there is no one to come and watch? As a first time event for a city, making sure that spectators show up and feed the economy is critical.

All goals were achieved. Racers were smiling all night long. Tacoma citizens were glowing. And the taverns and restaurants were seeing their tills overflow as their kegs ran empty.

Look for the Tacoma Twilight Criterium to be back again in 2011.

Let's hear it for New York!

Sometimes there is nothing better than a get-away with the girls. And sometimes that just has to be done in Manhattan. So Julia (my very good high-school friend) and I arranged to meet up with Silvia (see Rainier blog) in NY and spend a long weekend soaking up the city. We had talked about a trip to the Grand Canyon in a camper van but time and practicality got in the way and we decided to meet 'in the middle' was the best idea.



It is a strange thing, going to a city as iconic as New York, having been a UK citizen and now residing in the US. If I were to go to New York from say Bristol, there would be the undoubted tingle of excitement boarding the plane to fly across the ocean to a foreign land. Different money, different voices, different food, all the joys of travel that add to the frisson when you get there. And more so going to 'the Big Apple.'

Flying there from Tacoma however, with a year's US living under my belt, I am sad to say there was no such tingle. I was very happy to be going, and very much looking forward to some time in the city with my friends, but it was much more akin to a trip to Manchester from Washington than a pilgrimage to an international icon.

That said, it was a refreshing and exhilarating trip. I have written here about the beautiful art in Tacoma and how much I enjoy taking part in the happenings around town, but there is nothing to match the high end, world class design and fashion in New York. I realized very quickly how much I valued being able to step into the V & A for a few minutes in London, or scoot past the design districts for some real-world visual stimulation.

The whole voyage was added to immensely by the fact that we had hit the weekend of the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF) and that our friend Silvia, who we were staying with, is deeply entrenched in the world of Italian designer lighting and simply had to attend functions and exhibitions. Naturally, Julia and I went too.

The first day Julia and I met near the New York Times building for breakfast in a 'nice' cafe. Somewhere to clear the head, feel 'nice' and get reacquainted. Then we set off on foot exploring. Grand Central Station was first on the list followed by a meander down to Soho to meet Silvia. I now know why the red-eye flight is called such. A 30 minute nap under a tree was enough to subdue the burning in my head but not enough to dispel it completely.



We wandered the streets enjoying the surroundings and each other. The weather was so hot and humid, I was seriously regretting my decision to wear cowboy boots and woolen socks. But we must suffer for fashion. (I noticed several people on the Subway from JFK through Brooklyn to Manhattan were rather jealous of my boots. I think I'll set up a store there).



As fortune would have it, a mutual school friend of ours also lives in New York now. We managed to meet up with him for tea just after some dental surgery on his wisdom teeth. The dentist had somehow managed to split his lip and pierce his face with a tool, as well as leaving him swollen and numb. So there are understandably no pictures of our visit with Steven! It was very good to see him though, and reassuring to know that even after 10 years, were all still the same at heart.

The evening saw us heading to our first party. Seeing as Julia and I were still in our traveling clothes, we thought it best to just stay out of the way and observe, enjoy the furniture, and learn the etiquette for the next evening which would be the main party.



The ride home turned out to be more eventful than we had planned, with the subways being canceled due to 'Police investigation'. A 20 minute Downtown-late-night search for a cab proceeded with Silvia running into the middle of the road and Julia and I standing back and crossing our fingers! We get in the cab and the cabbie confesses that he doesn't know how to work the car. It is a new hibrid he has been given that day. Congestion slows the passing over the Queens bridge and we see a large artic truck try and ascend a spiral on-ramp...we didn't look back. Around 20 blocks from home, the cab stalls in the middle lane of a stop light intersection. How many cabbies does it take to charge a car battery? More than two!



Saturday starts late and we pretty much just walk and eat, exploring the East side and Little Italy, then on to the site of the Twin Towers. The site itself was a building ground. What struck me was the feeling around it, imagining myself on that day working in one of the buildings. And seeing the memorials to the fallen firefighters on all the fire station doors. Someone asked me before I left, 'Can you really understand what it is like, seeing those towers not there? Or will it be like visiting another tourist site?' The answer is Yes. I can understand. Visualize London without Canary Wharf. Without your friends who work in Canary Wharf. Visualize yourself on the central line trapped in a tunnel while the sky falls in above you. Yes. I can understand. My family are from East Germany. Remember Berlin 1991 (2)? with the scars of the Berlin Wall very much visible in the people's faces. Revisit 5 years later and the wall is cleaned up but still there. Another 5 years and there are actors impersonating SS guards at Check Point Charlie for tourists to have their photo taken with. The scar in my heart burning as we pass them. Yes. I can understand.



That evening's party was on Greene St. We checked in at the narrow door with the PR girl with the list and walk down the thin corridor to the elevator. The call button is pressed and Julia and I are suddenly swamped by most of the Italian population of Soho. The elevator holds maybe 15? All talking Italian. The doors open after an agonizing wait to reveal the consummate New York loft, white walls, open plan, beautiful people. Tony and I had just watched Jeff Goldblum in 'The Fly'. It was reminiscent of his pad there. A waiter stood at the door to offer drinks, the DJ was turning out some Jamiroquai. It was 6.30pm.



We headed to the roof to watch the people and the sun and enjoy the garden chairs. What I found fascinating at all the events we went to was the wide cross section of the design world represented. Architects, designers, buyers, journalists, investors, PAs, sons, daughters, 'hangers on'. And all in varying states of dress. Julia and I certainly felt at home drinking wine from a plastic cup in the $200,000 kitchen. By 9pm we had certainly enjoyed what the beverage center had to offer. We could get used to this.



The night carried on late into the morning. Tacos at midnight accompanied by 80s Europop continued the surreal feel of the day.



Sunday we headed to the Met and Central Park via 5th Ave and the Apple store. We didn't like Central Park. It looked like a landscape ravaged by human occupancy and felt like Oxford St on a Saturday at 12pm. The Met however, was stunning. We passed through the Roman and Greek stuff (British Museum wins there) and headed to the African and Polynesian exhibits. This is an area sorely lacking in most European museums save for some special touring pieces.



In the evening we found ourselves in the Meatpacking District with the great and good but decided to pass on the party and head to the Highline Trail instead. This is an old railway line that has been turned into a public space for city dwellers. It certainly was stunning in the purple sunset with the view across the Hudson to New Jersey.



Monday was our last day. The end of a holiday is always difficult. The freedom of exploration replaced by an impending deadline. We took the Staten Island Ferry to see the Statue of Liberty and then wandered around Soho and Greenwich Village soaking up the last of our time together.



We certainly had done the city and ourselves proud.



Click here for more pictures.